Le Mans 24 Hours

Le Mans 24 Hours

15.10.2013 14:53:00
LE MANS 24 HOURS DRIVING GUIDE

by

Wolf Feather/Jamie Stafford
FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM


Version: 1.1
Completed: August 23, 2001



Initial Version Completed August 19, 2001

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UPDATE
This version of the Driving Guide adds more cars and how to
acquire them, the Completely Subjective Section, more
specific details for some courses, more tips for Surviving an
Endurance Race, and some clarifications throughout the guide.
Also, I finally completed the Petit Le Mans at 10 hours!!!!!

This driving guide is even longer than before - now at 40
pages in the Macintosh version of Word 98, single-spaced, in
Courier 12 font. It may not necessarily be a great idea to
print out this guide in its entirety.

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CONTENTS
Spacing and Length
Permissions
Introduction
Game Modes
Tires
General Tips
Surviving an Endurance Race
The Circuits
Completely Subjective Section
Details: Le Mans
Details: Bugatti
Details: Brno
Details: Donington National
Details: Donington Grand Prix
Details: Catalunya National
Details: Catalunya Grand Prix
Details: Suzuka East
Details: Suzuka West
Details: Suzuka Grand Prix
Details: Road Atlanta
Details: Road Atlanta National
Details: Reverse Courses
Unlocking Circuits (Spoilers!!!!!)
Unlocking Cars (Spoilers!!!!!)
Wish List
Contact

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SPACING AND LENGTH
For optimum readability, this driving guide should be
viewed/printed using a monowidth font, such as Courier.
Check for appropriate font setting by making sure the numbers
and letters below line up:

1234567890123456789012345678901234567890123456789012
ABCDEFGHIJKLMNOPQRSTUVWXYZabcdefghijklmnopqrstuvwxyz

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PERMISSIONS
This guide may ONLY be posted on FeatherGuides, GameFAQs.com,
PSXCodez.com, F1Gamers, Cheatcc.com, Absolute-
PlayStation.com, InsidePS2Games.com, RedCoupe,
CheatPlanet.com, The Cheat Empire, a2zweblinks.com, Gameguru,
cheatingplanet.com, vgstrategies.com, GT3TuneShop, hellzgate,
ps2fantasy.com, and neoseeker.com.

Permission is granted to download and print one copy of this
game guide for personal use.

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INTRODUCTION
I feel extremely fortunate to have been able to watch fifteen
of the 24 Hours of Daytona in February 2001 - the first and
only time Dale Earnhardt was able to compete in this classic
event. While I personally prefer true road courses to
stadium courses, I was still caught up in the beauty and
artistry of the grueling event. It was really quite special
to see cars speeding along on the tight, narrow pavement in
the middle of the night, barely able to see anything beyond
the glow of the headlights. I also enjoyed the interviews
with race teams and spectators alike as they also fought to
survive their grueling roles in the race. The changing
weather conditions made this all even more difficult for
everyone involved.

Le Mans 24 Hours brings this experience home. The LONG
endurance races - Petit Le Mans (10 hours) and Le Mans (24
hours) - are extremely true to Nature in this respect. The
tracking of the shadows as the sun crosses the sky during the
day, the tracking of the moon and stars as they cross the
night sky, the glare of headlights and taillights, the sound
of the engines piercing the airŠ However, many of these
changes are not easily noticed, as so much of your attention
is focused on the mechanics of the race itself, and on
anticipating the next corner.

This guide comprises many elements, from listing the
unlockable features to giving general tips to providing
detailed circuit information. As for this latter point, some
of the detail information - with appropriate modifications -
comes from the driving guide I wrote for F1 Championship
Season 2000 (itself based on the guide I wrote for F1 2000);
this only applies to those circuits which are common between
these two games. For ALL circuits, where the corner/segment
names are known, I have translated these names to English and
dropped any accent markings, as standard text-only Internet
documents are based on the English-language ASCII character
set. Also, circuit detail information is for dry-conditions,
daylight driving; appropriate modifications are required for
nighttime driving and driving in other weather conditions.

I have also included a section on tires. The information for
this section comes from my GT3: Tires Guide, with appropriate
modifications.

All twelve possible courses (plus the three reverse courses)
are listed here, with detailed driving instructions for each
(except the reverse courses); see Unlocking Circuits
(Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.

Nearly 60 of the advertised 70+ cars in the game are listed,
based on my own progress in the first week with the game;
more cars will be listed in future updates. See Unlocking
Cars (Spoilers!!!!!) below for details.

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GAME MODES
Le Mans 24 Hours features five game modes:

1.) Quick Race allows you to immediately get started racing.
Only four courses are initially available, but more courses
(including three reverse-direction courses) will be unlocked
as you win races; see Unlocking Circuits (Spoilers!!!!!)
below for details. However, when first playing Le Mans 24
Hours (or ANY racing game with a Time Trial, Free Run, or
similar mode), it would be best to start with Time Trail
instead to learn the many courses.

2.) Championship presents you with increasingly-difficult
championship series; only Rookie GT is initially available,
but winning each series unlocks the next series. However,
the circuits listed in the game manual for each championship
series are not necessarily the same circuits actually used in
the game.

3.) Le Mans mode allows you to race for varying amounts of
time in either Petit Le Mans (at Road Atlanta) or Le Mans
2000. Winning at each race length (measured in time) unlocks
more cars; see Unlocking Cars (Spoilers!!!!!) below for
details.

4.) Multiplayer allows for one-on-one competition.

5.) Time Trial is a great place to begin, allowing you to
learn the courses on your own pace, with no other vehicles on
the circuits with you to distract you. Once you learn the
courses, this is where you can really work to improve your
lap times. Only four courses are initially available in Time
Trial, but more will be opened as you win races in Quick
Race; see Unlocking Circuits (Spoilers!!!!!) below for
details.

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TIRES
A very important issue in tire selection actually involves
horsepower. The chosen tires need to have some measure of
durability, or else you will be stopping in Pit Lane to
change tires after virtually every lap of the race. In other
words, don't allow the car's horsepower to overdrive the
tires' ability to function properly.

In the event that the chosen tires wear out too much,
cornering at any respectable speed will be virtually
impossible, instead causing a nearly-uncontrollable slide
into a barrier or into another vehicle. Strong acceleration
will likely cause the vehicle to spin. A good driver will
not let this happen very often; an expert driver will NEVER
let this happen. Always keep an eye on your tire indicators,
and plan ahead. If possible, choose tires which will last as
least as long as your fuel load.

When the tire indicators are green, the tires provide you
with the best possible grip for that set of tires. The
amount of time the tire indicators remain in the green color
range depends on your driving style, the amount of time off-
course (in the grass or sand) or banging the barriers (or
other cars), and the selection of tire compound.

As the tire indicators switch to yellow, you need to start
taking better care of your tires. You may experience slides
when cornering.

One of the best ways to reduce the durability of the tires is
to corner at high speeds. The manual for Gran Turismo 3
gives an excellent, detailed description of what occurs with
the tires when cornering. In short, cornering at high speeds
causes a high percentage of the tire to be used for speed,
and a low percentage to be used for the actual cornering. To
combat this and thus extend the durability of the tires, try
to brake in a STRAIGHT line before reaching a turn, thus
reducing overall speed and providing a lower percentage of
the tires to be used for speed, and a greater percentage used
for cornering.

Note that if the percentage of the tires used for speed is
too high compared to the percentage used for cornering, the
car will slide and/or spin.

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GENERAL TIPS
For those not accustomed to racing games, Time Trial mode is
by far the best place to start. This will allow you to try
out cars in all three race categories, and also to learn the
courses without the distraction of other cars on the circuit
with you. Only really adept racing gamers (especially those
who mostly play simulations) will be able to jump into a race
on an unseen course and perform well.

For races with a standing start, do not hold down the
accelerator while you wait for the lights to change to green.
Instead, keep off the accelerator, and try to time its use
with the exact millisecond the lights turn green. This will
reduce wheelspin due to excessive engine revs, thus applying
all available power to tire traction. On some circuits, if
you use this strategy from a starting position at the very
back of the grid, you can pass up to half of your competitors
before reaching the first corner!!!

To the extent possible, keep to the approved racing surfaces
(pavement, concrete, rumble strips). Grass will slow you
down, and sand traps (a.k.a. 'kitty litter') will essentially
bring you to an immediate halt.

To pass, use the draft - this is especially effective in
prototype cars. Or, if you feel a bit rowdy, ram or
sideswipe the car in front of you (especially on or just
before corner entry) to knock it out of your way and send it
sliding off-course. If you ram a car hard enough from
behind, it is possible to send the other vehicle flipping
end-over-end or into a continuous-roll accident; a 'good'
place to do this is coming into Turn 11 at Road America.

If you do not choose to qualify, you will automatically start
in last place; therefore, you have nothing to lose and A LOT
to gain by qualifying. If you can qualify on Pole, that can
mean up to twenty-three FEWER passes you will need to make as
a race progresses. This may not be very significant in
shorter races, but in the longer (Le Mans and Petit Le Mans)
races, this could become a significant factor, especially in
relation to Pit strategy.

If you are in first place and begin lapping other cars, those
cars one or more laps behind you will have blue indicators on
the track map.

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SURVIVING AN ENDURANCE RACE
While most of the races in Le Mans 24 Hours are relatively
short by racing standards, some races are extremely long
(especially the full Le Mans or Petit Le Mans races, at
twenty-four and ten hours, respectively). Even the 'short'
100-minute Petit Le Mans race is relatively survivable,

However, the longer races require even more focus and
concentration. Fatigue really begins to set in, especially
for those not habituated to playing full-length races in non-
endurance racing games such as F1 2001. While Le Mans 24
Hours allows for progress in longer races to be saved when in
Pit Lane, you really lose the 'flow' of a given race if you
save your progress and shut off the console after one stint
in the car, making such a start-and-stop 'method' of racing
quite a fragmented, arguably 'postmodern' method of racing.

For those who prefer to race for multiple stints at a time,
here are some tips to help you keep your concentration and
focus:

1.) Make sure you are well-rested and have plenty of time for
driving multiple consecutive stints. To give you a
benchmark, I average about forty-five minutes per stint at Le
Mans using full fuel and hard tires in a Closed Prototype
vehicle. For the Petit Le Mans, I generally race a Closed
Prototype car with fifty-percent fuel and soft tires, for
thirty to forty minutes per stint.

2.) Make sure you are as comfortable as possible. Real-world
race drivers often have specifically-molded seat cushions to
help in this endeavor. While such specialized equipment is
far too expensive to be used when playing console racing
games, the concept is the same: Make sure you are in a
comfortable chair, with appropriate cushions if necessary.
If you like to have a footrest, make sure it is in place
before beginning a race.

3.) While Le Mans 24 Hours does include music, it can quite
easily become too repetitive to help you keep your
concentration. If you have a stereo or radio separate from
the sound system of your console and television, put on other
music, perhaps a favorite CD.

4.) Adjust for lighting before beginning a race. This is
especially important for those - like myself - who have the
console and television placed directly in front of a window
due to the configuration of a small apartment or dorm room.
Adjust the blinds or curtains to your liking so that any
light coming in will not bother your eyes, especially when
racing through the nighttime portion of races. Also, turn
off or move lights whose shine reflects off the television
screen.

5.) Have a drink handy. To be more realistic in relation to
actual race drivers, only make use of the drink while in Pit
Lane, thus simulating a driver receiving a small water bottle
while the team handles car servicing. Or, simply have the
drink next to you on a table so that you can quickly reach it
for a quick sip down a straightaway; this would more or less
simulate the in-helmet drink system used by some real-world
race-drivers. (Of course, you could always 'cheat' and
simply pause the game whenever you need a quick drink.) Note
that drinks with high caffeine content (such as Jolt, sold in
select markets in the States) may not be a good choice; if
you run out of the drink well before the end of a stint, or
long before you finish your planned multiple stints, you
could experience a rather severe caffeine crash, which will
adversely affect your driving performance and your
concentration.

6.) Real-world drivers generally do not get a chance to eat
during the race, except perhaps while the car is in Pit Lane
for fuels and tires. A small plate or bowl of small snack
foods might be useful. Small candies, crackers, cheeses,
etc., may be good choices. If you are on a diet, consult
your doctor or nutritionist for good snack food
possibilities.

7.) If you often download images, sounds, movies, etc., from
the Internet and have a computer close to the console, set
the computer to download a massive number of files before
starting the game. Occasionally (preferably when alone on a
long straightaway), look over at the computer to check on the
progress of the download. This will subconsciously keep your
mind occupied on more than simply racing, thus forcing
yourself to remain focused via extra effort.

8.) Avoid racing at times of the day (or night) when your
body naturally tends to shut down. This applies to life in
general, including choosing times between three-hour grad
classes!!!!!

9.) Try to internalize the basics of racing before beginning
an endurance race. If you can instinctively handle a J-turn,
for example, the mechanics of safely navigating the corner
will require less concentration. Perhaps the best possible
means to learn the basics of racing is to complete ALL the
license tests of any game in the Gran Turismo series.

10.) Simulate an actual Le Mans or Petit Le Mans race,
without pausing or saving the game to continue later. Gather
together several friends, and take turns doing the driving,
changing drivers only at the Pit Stops as in an actual
endurance race. Of course, this will give you an advantage
over real-world endurance race drivers: They do not
generally get to have good conversations with friends while
driving.

11.) If your car is lightning-fast compared to the other
vehicles in the race, then after the first or second stint,
always use 50% fuel. This should also allow you to use soft
tires (if in dry conditions), as soft tires will generally
wear out after about half of a fuel tank has been depleted.
This method will obviously have you sitting in Pit Lane more
often, but that will give you more short breaks to catch your
breath and let your adrenaline simmer for a moment.

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THE CIRCUITS
Here are the circuits available in Le Mans 24 Hours, along
with brief descriptions:

Le Mans The longest circuit of the game,
Le Mans is quite challenging,
especially when approaching the
Pits and Front Straightaway. Keep
an eye on the tire and fuel
indicators; if you run out of fuel
or sufficient traction on the
back side of the circuit, you may
as well just quit the race.
Bugatti This is the permanent section of
the Le Mans circuit. High speeds
are not really effective here with
all the technical corners.
Brno If not for the many hills, this
would be a really great circuit.
As it is, great speeds can be
achieved here, especially with a
low-downforce set-up, but
cornering can be somewhat
difficult.
Donington National Good speeds can be achieved at
Donington, but there are several
tight corners which will really
challenge low-downforce cars.
Donington Grand Prix Identical to Donington National,
with the addition of a nasty
chicane and two tight hairpins.
Catalunya National A quick course, but the first turn
(a hairpin) is sharp.
Catalunya Grand Prix An excellent circuit with high
speeds possible. This circuit
will be quite familiar to those
who have played F1-based games.
Suzuka East The Suzuka East circuit includes
the figure-eight crossover. Good
use of the draft can be very
beneficial here.
Suzuka West The S-curves can be quite
dangerous, but they do provide
excellent passing opportunities if
you can brake deeper than the cars
in front of you.
Suzuka Grand Prix This circuit will also be quite
familiar to those who have played
F1-based and motorcycle-based
games. This is the most famous
circuit in Japan, and perhaps in
all of Asia.
Road Atlanta National This course provides steep
elevation changes, tempering
significant straightaways with
blind corners.
Road Atlanta This course provides steep
elevation changes, tempering
significant straightaways with
blind corners. This course has
been offered in other racing
games, so some players may
already be rather familiar with
Road Atlanta.

There are also three official reverse courses: Brno,
Donington National, and Donington Grand Prix. Of course, you
can drive in reverse on any course at any time, but this is
not recommended, especially during a race!!!!!

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COMPLETELY SUBJECTIVE SECTION
This may be completely useless information for some (unless
these items become answers on Jeopardy!), so this section
should be taken with several grains of salt and a large raw
salmon.

My Favorite Courses:
Le Mans
Catalunya Grand Prix
Road Atlanta (full circuit)
Suzuka Grand Prix

My Least Favorite Courses:
Catalunya National
Road Atlanta National
Suzuka East
Suzuka West

My Favorite Corners:
Bugatti: Museum Curve
Catalunya Grand Prix: Seat
Le Mans: Mulsanne and Porsche Curve
Road Atlanta: Turn 8 (the second-nastiest corner) and Turn
13 (the nastiest corner, passing underneath Suzuka
Bridge)
Road Atlanta National: Turn 12 (the nastiest corner,
passing underneath Suzuka Bridge)
Suzuka: Degner
Suzuka West: Degner

My Least Favorite Corners:
Bugatti: Dunlop Chicane
Catalunya Grand Prix: Banc Sabadeau
Catalunya National: Banc Sabadeau
Le Mans: Dunlop Chicane, White House
Suzuka Grand Prix: Chicane
Donington Grand Prix: Turns 9-10
Donington National: Turns 9-10

My Favorite Driving Conditions:
Broad daylight, dry weather conditions
Complete darkness, clear sky, with few trees or other
obstacles to block the view of the stars and moon
Sunset

My Least Favorite Driving Conditions:
Downpour

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DETAILS: LE MANS
This is the longest circuit of the gameŠ and quite likely the
reason players buy or rent this game!!! It is imperative to
learn this circuit flawlessly during daylight conditions, as
visibility is unbelievably poor at night (although better
than in the old Test Drive: Le Mans).

Turn 1 (Dunlop Curve): This is a rather nice right-hand fade
which can be taken flat-out. However, it may be a good idea
to begin braking for Dunlop Chicane when exiting Dunlop
Curve. An elevation change begins here.

Turns 2-4 (Dunlop Chicane): Given the continual upward slope
through Dunlop Chicane, it is extremely easy to slip off the
pavement on either side of the circuitŠ and both sides are
filled with plenty of kitty litter. Braking well before
entering the Dunlop Chicane is of UTMOST importance as the
corners of the chicane are rather tight. At the beginning of
a race, all the traffic can make this segment even more
treacherous than it would be normally.

Straightaway: The significant hill crests as you pass
underneath the big tire.

Turns 5-6 (Red Mound S): This left-right chicane begins just
after passing the Ferris Wheel on the left side of the
course, and is a good reference point to use in picking your
braking zone; note that the Bugatti circuit turns to the
right here. The barriers are rather close to the pavement on
both sides through the chicane, so any off-pavement
excursions will result in sliding along the rails; this is
especially important in case you carry too much speed through
this chicane.

Turns 7-9 (Red Mound Curve): This is a set of three right-
hand semi-corners which can usually be taken flat-out, unless
you find yourself encumbered by traffic. However, keep a
tight line to the apex of each of the three semi-corners, or
you may find yourself with a few wheels in the sand and grass
on the outside of the course. The outside of the final
corner is actually paved (where roads come together), so this
can be used as a good swing-out area if necessary, and can
also be used to pass a small group of cars on the inside of
the corner.

Straightaway (Hunaudieres Straight - Part I): This is the
longest straightaway of the circuit, and very good top-end
speeds can be achieved here, especially if you were able to
blast your way through Red Mound Curve without even tapping
the brakes. However, there is no room for error if you get
involved in a three-abreast situation, as the barriers come
almost directly up to the pavement. During the day, look for
the distance-to-corner markers or else you will miss Motorola
Chicane (flashing red lights alert you to the chicane at
night).

Turns 10-12 (Motorola Chicane): This is the same chicane
format as the Dunlop Chicane (right-left-right), but wider
and without the hill. Beware the barriers. At night, the
first corner of the chicane is easily identifiable by the red
lights; during the day, however, the chicane is very
difficult to see from a distance, so look for the distance-
to-corner markers.

Straightaway (Hunaudieres Straight - Part II): Very good top-
end speeds can be achieved here. However, there is no room
for error if you get involved in a three-abreast situation,
as the barriers come almost directly up to the pavement.
During the day, look for the distance-to-corner markers or
else you will miss Michelin Chicane (flashing red lights
alert you to the chicane at night).

Turns 13-15 (Michelin Chicane): This is exactly like the
Motorola Chicane, but is a left-right-left combination. At
night, the first corner of the chicane is easily identifiable
by the red lights; during the day, however, the chicane is
very difficult to see from a distance, so look for the
distance-to-corner markers.

Straightaway: Yet another long straightaway, but with a small
fade to the right almost halfway along its length. After
clearing the small rise (similar to a bridge over a small
country stream), look for the distance-to-corner markers for
Mulsanne Curve.

Mulsanne: If you can carry enough speed and have sufficient
tire grip, you can essentially treat both Mulsanne Hump and
Mulsanne Curve as one long corner by riding up on the inside
rumble strip of Mulsanne Curve.

Turn 16 (Mulsanne Hump): The distance-to-corner markers
actually are for the following right-hand turn, but no one
can afford to miss Mulsanne Hump, whose apex is almost
exactly in line with the 100m marker.

Turn 17 (Mulsanne Curve): The distance-to-corner markers
are actually for THIS corner. This is a ninety-degree
corner requiring moderate braking and a solid, clean
racing line to keep out of the sand trap.

Straightaway: This straightaway has three right-hand fades
along its length. At the apex of the third fade, begin
braking for the Indianapolis Curve.

Turn 18 (Indianapolis Curve): This left-hand ninety-degree
corner can easily be missed, so use plenty of braking
beginning at the apex of the third fade along the previous
straightaway.

Turn 19 (Arnage Curve): After a very brief straightaway, this
is a right-hand right-angle corner. The trick here is to NOT
come up to full speed following the Indianapolis Curve, thus
saving your brakes a little (which is extremely importance in
endurance races). If you go wide, say 'Bonjour' (daytime) or
'Bonsoir' (nighttime) to the barrier. Likewise, if you carry
too much speed over the inside rumble strip, countersteer
immediately to avoid a spin.

Straightaway: This 'straightaway' has four fades (left-right-
left-right). After the fourth fade, get ready for the
Porsche Curve.

'Chicane:' This next segment essentially forms a wide right-
left-left-right ('bus stop') chicane.

Turn 20 (Porsche Curve): Light braking will likely be
needed here, although experts can probably blast through
here at top speed if not encumbered by traffic. A small
uphill rise begins here.

Turn 21: The rise crests here as the course turns to the
left.

Turns 22-23: The course elevation drops at Turn 22 as the
circuit turns to the left, making this corner more
challenging than it would at first appear. Turn 23
follows immediately, turning to the right.

Turns 24-27 (Prairie): There are four significant semi-
corners (right-left-right-left) here. Top speed can be
carried all the way through Prairie. On exiting Turn 27, the
single yellow line marking the Pit Entry begins on the right.

Turns 28-31 (White House): These tight left-right-left-right
S-curves are the finale of a lap around the Le Mans circuit.
The entire area is surrounded by massive sand traps, so if
you slip off the pavement, you will be slowed almost to a
snail's crawl, losing valuable time and allowing those behind
you to pass with the greatest of ease. A VERY brief
straightaway separates the first left-right combination from
the second. Note that to keep your time in this section to a
minimum, you will need to make use of the rumble strips on
the inside of each corner; however, if you come through ANY
corner of White House carrying too much speed, the car will
bounce severely and perhaps spin or slide out into the kitty
litter.

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DETAILS: BUGATTI
This is the permanent section of the Le Mans circuit.
Bugatti is a rather technical circuit, so top-end speed is
not necessarily the best way to set up a car here. Those
familiar with the Nevers Magny-Cours F1 circuit will
appreciate the similarity to the four semi-parallel
straightaways on the first half of the Bugatti circuit.

Turn 1 (Dunlop Curve): This is a rather nice right-hand fade
which can be taken flat-out. However, it may be a good idea
to begin braking for Dunlop Chicane when exiting Dunlop
Curve. An elevation change begins here.

Turns 2-4 (Dunlop Chicane): Given the continual upward slope
through Dunlop Chicane, it is extremely easy to slip off the
pavement on either side of the circuitŠ and both sides are
filled with plenty of kitty litter. Braking well before
entering the Dunlop Chicane is of UTMOST importance as the
corners of the chicane are rather tight. At the beginning of
a race, all the traffic can make this segment even more
treacherous than it would be normally.

Semi-parallel Straightaways: These four semi-parallel
straightaways can produce an unexpected aural effect. Once
traffic stretches out all around the circuit, whenever you
are on the middle straightaways, you will almost certainly
hear cars speeding past you on the straightaways to either
side of you.

Straightaway: The significant hill crests as you pass
underneath the big tire.

Turn 5 (Chapel): This is a rather tight right-hand hairpin
which will require moderate breaking on entrance. Chapel
begins immediately after passing the tall Ferris Wheel on
the left.

Turn 6 (Museum Curve): This is a wide left-hand hairpin
with an extensive sand trap to the outside of the
pavement. Of the three consecutive hairpins, this is by
far the easiest to handle, allowing for most cars to still
carry some considerable speed through the hairpin, but
braking is still required before entry.

Turn 7 (Green Garage): Yet another tight right-hand
hairpin requiring harsh braking. If you miss your braking
zone, you will find yourself beached in the kitty litter
to the outside of the hairpin.

Turns 8-9 (Ox Way S): Hard braking is required here after the
fourth of the semi-parallel straightaways. Beware the sand
traps to the outside of each corner, and make sure not to
overcompensate and roll through the grass on the inside of
the corners. Turn 8 begins immediately after passing
underneath the Bridgestone bridge.

Turns 10-11 (Blues S): Brake early or Turn 10 will have you
either out in the kitty litter or spinning around in the
middle of the pavement. The right-handed Turn 10 is rather
straightforward. However, there are then TWO pieces of
pavement turning to the left. The official Turn 11 is the
SECOND pavement, so do not turn too soon.

Turns 12-13 (Connection): Pit Entry is to the right
immediately before entering Connection, so beware of slower
cars here. The Connection complex is extremely complex, as
the final chicanes and the Pit Entry of the Le Mans course
all rejoin the Bugatti course here. Just make two right-
hand, ninety-degree turns at a moderate pace and you will
soon find yourself safely back on Pit Straight.

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DETAILS: BRNO
Located in the Czech Republic, this is another rather
technical circuit, with massive sand traps on the outside of
every corner, and sand traps on the inside of many corners as
well. A reverse race configuration is also available at
Brno. Fortunately, this is a rather wide circuit, so racing
three-abreast is easily done without anyone endangering the
other cars involved; four-wide racing, however, is certainly
NOT recommended at Brno!!!!!

Pit Straight: The Pit Lane barrier is set just far enough
away from the official course (marked by the white line on
the right side) that an unofficial paved lane is created.
You can make use of this unofficial lane to pass several cars
at once, especially on a standing start. However, beware of
any cars exiting Pit Lane.

Turn 1: This is a relatively-fast right-hand J-turn requiring
light to moderate braking on entry. For good lap times, a
minimum speed of 100MPH/160KPH is required through Turn 1,
but I have been able to successfully hold speeds over 110MPH
before oversteering begins to take effect. If you can
successfully hold such speeds here, Turn 1 is a great place
to pass other cars. Do not drift off-course on the left, or
you will be beached in the sand. A gentle fade to the left
occurs on corner exit.

Turn 2: This left-hand corner will require moderate braking
on entry to keep out of the sand. Again, good speed can be
held through this corner, allowing you to pass one or two
cars.

Turn 3: After a brief straightaway, this right-hand corner
will require light braking to stay out of the sand.

Straightaway: The circuit begins its downhill run here.

Turn 4: Continuing downhill, this right-hand J-turn requires
moderate braking as the car lightens.

Turn 5: A right-hand corner requiring light braking as the
course continues downhill.

Turn 6: After a brief straightaway, the course continues
downhill through this left-hand corner, which requires light
braking. Do not go wide on exit or you will be caught out in
the kitty litter.

Turn 7: Still continuing downhill, the course turns left
here, requiring light braking. If you go wide, you will be
out in the sand.

Turn 8: This right-hand J-turn requires moderate braking to
keep from sliding out into the sand on the outside of the
corner. The inside of the corner also has a sand trap, so do
not cut this corner too short if you need to pass other cars
here.

Turn 9: After a relatively long straightaway, the course has
a right-hand downhill J-turn here requiring moderate braking.
Drift left on exit, but do not go too wide or you will be
beached in the sand.

Turn 10: The course finally 'bottoms out' and begins a gentle
uphill climb at the entrance of this left-hand corner. Light
braking is required here to keep from running out into the
sand.

Turn 11: Almost immediately following Turn 10, this right-
hand corner continues the uphill climb. Moderate braking is
necessary here.

Turn 12: Still continuing uphill, use moderate braking for
this left-hand corner to keep out of the sand.

Turn 13: The hill crests on entry to Turn 13. Use light or
moderate braking here to stay out of the kitty litter. The
single white line indicating Pit Entry begins just after the
apex of Turn 13, so be mindful of cars slowing for Pit Entry.

====================================

DETAILS: DONINGTON NATIONAL

This popular British venue is the host of many events, and
has been included in other games. The outside of almost
every corner has a very small strip of grass between the
pavement and the sand trap. The only difference from the
Donington Grand Prix course is that the two straightaways
behind the Paddock Suite are bypassed.

Turn 1: This right-hand J-turn requires moderate braking, and
plenty of patience at the start of a race as traffic really
jams up here.

Turn 2: This is a long, gentle right-hand semi-corner,
sloping downhill along its entire length.

Turn 3: Continuing downhill, this left-hand corner will only
require light braking, if the brakes are needed at all. Due
to the downhill slope, it may be difficult to see the apex of
the corner as you approach.

Turn 4: Immediately after Turn 3, the course turns uphill to
the right here, with light or moderate braking required.

Turn 5: After passing underneath the pedestrian bridge, the
course turns to the left here. No braking is required.

Turn 6: This is really just a left-hand fade.

Turn 7: Moderate braking is necessary as the course continues
uphill through this right-hand turn. The barrier on the left
comes rather close to the pavement, so there is not much
grass and sand to stop you if you miss your braking zone.

Turn 8: This lengthy, sweeping right-hand J-turn will require
light braking to keep out of the grass and sand as the course
continues slowly uphill. This corner opens out onto the
longest straightaway at Donington.

Turns 9-10: Shortly after passing underneath the big Dunlop
tire, begin braking for the chicane. This is a tight right-
left combination. Barriers to the inside AND outside of Turn
9 prevent any shortcutting.

====================================

DETAILS: DONINGTON GRAND PRIX

This popular British venue is the host of many events, and
has been included in other games. The outside of almost
every corner has a very small strip of grass between the
pavement and the sand trap.

Turn 1: This right-hand J-turn requires moderate braking, and
plenty of patience at the start of a race as traffic really
jams up here.

Turn 2: This is a long, gentle right-hand semi-corner,
sloping downhill along its entire length.

Turn 3: Continuing downhill, this left-hand corner will only
require light braking, if the brakes are needed at all. Due
to the downhill slope, it may be difficult to see the apex of
the corner as you approach.

Turn 4: Immediately after Turn 3, the course turns uphill to
the right here, with light or moderate braking required.

Turn 5: After passing underneath the pedestrian bridge, the
course turns to the left here. No braking is required.

Turn 6: This is really just a left-hand fade.

Turn 7: Moderate braking is necessary as the course continues
uphill through this right-hand turn. The barrier on the left
comes rather close to the pavement, so there is not much
grass and sand to stop you if you miss your braking zone.

Turn 8: This lengthy, sweeping right-hand J-turn will require
light braking to keep out of the grass and sand as the course
continues slowly uphill. This corner opens out onto the
longest straightaway at Donington.

Turns 9-10: Shortly after passing underneath the big Dunlop
tire, begin braking for the chicane. This is a tight left-
right combination with NO room for error. The barrier on the
inside of Turn 9 prevents shortcutting, and the sand trap to
the inside of Turn 10 severely hinders anyone attempting to
shortcut that corner.

Turn 11: After a significant straightaway, this is a tight
right-hand hairpin turn onto another significant straightaway
behind the Paddock Suite. Essentially, think of this as
changing runways on an airport circuit (such as at Sebring)
and you should do fairly well here. Moderate braking is
required here. If you miss your braking zone, there is a
wide patch of kitty litter to the outside of the corner.

Turn 12: The final corner of the circuit is a left-hand tight
hairpin. Again, think of this as changing runways on an
airport circuit. Moderate braking will be needed here.

====================================

DETAILS: CATALUNYA NATIONAL
The Catalunya circuit is challenging, especially the two
hairpins and the final corners of the race. For observers
and drivers alike, plenty of action can be found at the
Catalunya Grand Prix circuit.

Pit Straight: As usual, incredible speeds can be attained
here. Watch for cars rejoining the race from the right side
of the straightaway.

Turn 1: This right-hand hairpin is rather tight, and rejoins
the Grand Prix circuit just short of Wuth. Heavy braking
will be needed to slow sufficiently for Turn 1 after the high
speed attained on the Pit Straight.

Turn 2 (Wuth): With a good racing line, you should be able to
brake lightly to clear this semi-blind, slightly-downhill,
left-hand corner. Beware the barrier on the inside of Wuth.
The exit of Wuth has an immediate fade to the right.

Turn 3 (Campsa): This right-hand corner can be taken at full
speed, although other cars will usually swing wide-left and
brake slightly while rounding this corner. Note that the
official circuit is to the right; do not drive directly ahead
onto another patch of pavement, or you will lose plenty of
time. Also, in a twilight or night race, Campsa is extremely
difficult to see unless the taillights of other cars mark the
corner for you, so approach Campsa with extreme caution.

Turn 4 (La Cacsa): Severe braking is required for this left-
hand corner. While not suggested, you may be able to pass
other cars on braking here. As with Wuth, stay off the
rumble strips and grass on the inside of the turn, or you
will risk losing control of the car. This is a 'J' turn, and
the corner seems to go on forever before you reach the exit.

Turn 5 (Banc Sabadeau): Shortly following Turn 4, moderate or
heavy braking will be needed here for the right-hand, upward-
sloping corner. This is also a 'J' turn which is nearly a
double-apex corner. If you need a recovery area anywhere on
the course, it will most likely be here. It is possible to
pass slower cars here by tightly hugging the inside of the
turn, even running the right-side tires on the rumble strips.

Turn 6: Light braking may be needed for this right-hand
corner. The key here is to truly hug the inside of the turn
and accelerate strongly through the exit. Watch for slow
cars here preparing to go to Pit Lane for servicing.

Turn 7: Entering this right-hand corner, the Pit Lane begins
on the right, so be on the lookout for very slow cars here.
If you take this final corner too tightly, or make a VERY
late decision to go to the pits, you will likely damage the
front of the car on a barrier.

====================================

DETAILS: CATALUNYA GRAND PRIX
The Catalunya circuit is challenging, especially the two
hairpins and the final corners of the race. For observers
and drivers alike, plenty of action can be found at the
Catalunya Grand Prix circuit.

Pit Straight: As usual, incredible speeds can be attained
here. Watch for cars rejoining the race from the right side
of the straightaway.

Turn 1 (Elf): This is a right-hand corner which requires
light braking. Be careful not to hug the inside of the
corner too tightly, or you will bang the right side of the
car on the barrier. Strong acceleration out of Turn 1
creates great passing opportunities all the way to Repsol.
Attempting to take Turn 1 at top speed will either cause you
to lose control as you run up on the rumble strips, or send
you too far off course to survive Turn 2 (IF you survive the
kitty litter).

Turn 2 (Elf): Immediately following Turn 1, the left-hand
Turn 2 can usually be taken at top acceleration. With strong
acceleration out of Turn 1, this is a prime passing zone.

Turn 3 (Seat): A sweeping right-hand increasing-radius corner
which can be taken at full speed, this is also a good place
to pass slower cars, especially if you have the inside line.
If you were able to slow enough for Turn 1, you can begin
acceleration exiting Turn 1 and keep standing on the
accelerator all the way through Seat, giving you an excellent
speed advantage over many other cars which might be in the
area.

Turn 4 (Repsol): This is a semi-blind right-hand hairpin
corner which requires moderate or heavy braking. The barrier
on the inside of the corner rests almost directly against the
track, and blocks your view around the corner. This can
actually be a good place to pass on braking, but only with
extreme caution. Don't come too hot into this corner or else
you will find yourself in the sand. After clearing the first
90 degrees of Repsol, you should be able to accelerate fairly
well if not encumbered by traffic.

Turn 5: After a very short straightaway, this is a semi-blind
left-hand hairpin, a bit tighter than Turn 4. Moderate or
heavy braking will be needed here, or you will definitely be
using the recovery area.

Straightaway: This straightaway fades to the left. Good
acceleration out of Turn 5 can create passing opportunities,
especially in the braking zone for Wuth.

Turn 6 (Wuth): With a good racing line, you should be able to
brake lightly to clear this semi-blind, slightly-downhill,
left-hand corner. Beware the barrier on the inside of Wuth.
The exit of Wuth has an immediate fade to the right.

Turn 7 (Campsa): This right-hand corner can be taken at full
speed, although other cars will usually swing wide-left and
brake slightly while rounding this corner. Note that the
official circuit is to the right; do not drive directly ahead
onto another patch of pavement, or you will lose plenty of
time. Also, in a twilight or night race, Campsa is extremely
difficult to see unless the taillights of other cars mark the
corner for you, so approach Campsa with extreme caution.

Turn 8 (La Cacsa): Severe braking is required for this left-
hand corner. While not suggested, you may be able to pass
other cars on braking here. As with Wuth, stay off the
rumble strips and grass on the inside of the turn, or you
will risk losing control of the car. This is a 'J' turn, and
the corner seems to go on forever before you reach the exit.

Turn 9 (Banc Sabadeau): Shortly following Turn 8, moderate or
heavy braking will be needed here for the right-hand, upward-
sloping corner. This is also a 'J' turn which is nearly a
double-apex corner. If you need a recovery area anywhere on
the course, it will most likely be here. It is possible to
pass slower cars here by tightly hugging the inside of the
turn, even running the right-side tires on the rumble strips.

Turn 10: Light braking may be needed for this right-hand
corner. The key here is to truly hug the inside of the turn
and accelerate strongly through the exit. Watch for slow
cars here preparing to go to Pit Lane for servicing.

Turn 11: Entering this right-hand corner, the Pit Lane begins
on the right, so be on the lookout for very slow cars here.
If you take this final corner too tightly, or make a VERY
late decision to go to the pits, you will likely damage the
front of the car on a barrier.

====================================

DETAILS: SUZUKA EAST
This is the initial section of the world-famous Suzuka Grand
prix circuit. One of the most famous sights of the 'circuit'
is the large Ferris Wheel on the left behind the grandstands
as cars pass along the Pit Straight.

Pit Straight: Good speeds can be achieved here with strong
acceleration out of the chicane. The Pit Lane rejoins the
course from the right near the end of the Pit Straight.

Turn 1: This right-hand hairpin requires moderate braking on
approach, and you will likely be tapping the brakes through
the hairpin itself. This begins an uphill climb, and it is
difficult to see the left side of the pavement on exit, so be
careful not to run too wide and end up out in the sand.
There is really no reason to overrun the hairpin on entry, as
the corner is quite easily identifiable.

Turns 2-5 (S Curves): This is by far the hardest section of
the course - tight left-right-left-right corners. The first
of the 'S' curves can likely be taken at full speed, with
light or moderate braking for Turn 3. Turn 4 can be taken
either flat-out (not suggested) or with light braking. No
matter what, slam on the brakes for Turn 5, the tightest
corner of the 'S' section. This entire segment of the course
continues the uphill climb, making Turn 5 particularly more
difficult. There is ample recovery room on either side of
the course through the uphill 'S' section. The 'S' section
is a good place to pass slower cars, if you have enough
confidence in your brakes to pass during corner entry. No
matter what, you will NOT be surviving the 'S' curves unless
you use the brakes generouslyŠ or use only second or third
gear (definitely not suggested if you want to win).

Turn 6: The course continues gently uphill as it makes a wide
hairpin turn back toward the Start/Finish Line. It is very
easy to slip off the outside of the pavement here, so
exercise extreme caution here. This is also a great place to
pass other cars on braking on corner entry. If your chosen
car has great acceleration, it will certainly be of benefit
here on exit.

Turn 7: After a very brief straightaway, the circuit turns
gently to the right. No breaking is required here.

====================================

DETAILS: SUZUKA WEST
This is the latter two-thirds of the Grand Prix circuit, with
its own Pit Lane which is not used for F1 Grand Prix
competition.

Pit Straight: The Pit Lane Entry is on the right just after
exiting Spoon.

Turn 1 (130R): Shortly after crossing the bridge, the course
turns to the left. Some braking is required here. Prepare
for the upcoming hairpin.

Turn 2: This right-hand hairpin comes before what would be
Chicane on the Grand Prix circuit, and brings you back out
just short of Degner. Moderate to heavy breaking will be
required to successfully clear Turn 2.

Turn 3 (Degner): Here, the course turns to the right in
anticipation of the figure-eight pattern. Light braking will
likely be required, but it is possible to speed through here
without braking. To the outside of the course is a wide
expanse of grass and kitty litter in case you overrun the
corner.

Turn 4 (Degner): The final right-hand corner before passing
underneath the bridge, this turn is tighter than the previous
corner, thus moderate braking and a steady racing line will
be required here. This is also another prime passing zone.
Take care not to overrun Turn 8, as there is not much
recovery room between the pavement and the barrier.

Straightaway: Accelerate strongly out of Degner and you
should be able to pass one or two cars as you race underneath
the bridge. The course fades to the right here before
reaching the tight Hairpin.

Turn 5 (Hairpin): This is a tight left-hand hairpin which
begins the next uphill segment of the Suzuka circuit. It is
possible to shortcut a little here, but the grass combined
with the angle of the hill here will really slow you down and
perhaps cause you to spin and/or slide, especially in wet
conditions. Be careful not to accelerate too soon, or you
will be out in the grass. There is a sizeable patch of kitty
litter for those who miss the hairpin completely.

Turn 6: Continuing the uphill run, the course here makes a
wide sweep to the right. Any braking here means losing track
positions.

Turns 7 and 8 (Spoon): This is a tricky pair of left-hand
corners, in a decreasing-radius 'U' formation. The first
corner is fairly standard, requiring only a little braking.
However, Turn 8 is both tighter AND slopes downhill, so
judicious usage of brakes and a pristine racing line are both
important here, especially if attempting to pass a slower
vehicle. If you misjudge any single corner at Suzuka, it
will be Turn 8; fortunately, there is plenty of recovery room
on both sides of the pavement here. However, do not roll up
on the rumble strips or the grass on the inside of Turn 8, as
that will almost certainly cause you to lose control and
likely spin.

====================================

DETAILS: SUZUKA GRAND PRIX
This world-famous circuit in figure-eight style is used for
many forms of auto and motorcycle racing; as such, those who
have played other racing games (such as Moto GP World Tour,
or F1 Championship Season 2000) may already have some
familiarity with the Suzuka circuit. One of the most famous
sights of the 'circuit' is the large Ferris Wheel on the left
behind the grandstands as cars pass along the Pit Straight.

Pit Straight: Good speeds can be achieved here with strong
acceleration out of the chicane. The Pit Lane rejoins the
course from the right near the end of the Pit Straight.

Turn 1: This right-hand hairpin requires moderate braking on
approach, and you will likely be tapping the brakes through
the hairpin itself. This begins an uphill climb, and it is
difficult to see the left side of the pavement on exit, so be
careful not to run too wide and end up out in the sand.
There is really no reason to overrun the hairpin on entry, as
the corner is quite easily identifiable.

Turns 2-5 (S Curves): This is by far the hardest section of
the course - tight left-right-left-right corners. The first
of the 'S' curves can likely be taken at full speed, with
light or moderate braking for Turn 3. Turn 4 can be taken
either flat-out (not suggested) or with light braking. No
matter what, slam on the brakes for Turn 5, the tightest
corner of the 'S' section. This entire segment of the course
continues the uphill climb, making Turn 5 particularly more
difficult. There is ample recovery room on either side of
the course through the uphill 'S' section. The 'S' section
is a good place to pass slower cars, if you have enough
confidence in your brakes to pass during corner entry. No
matter what, you will NOT be surviving the 'S' curves unless
you use the brakes generouslyŠ or use only second or third
gear (definitely not suggested if you want to win).

Turn 6 (Dunlop Curve): This sweeping left-hand corner is the
crest of the initial uphill segment of the course, and can be
taken at full acceleration.

Turn 7 (Degner): Here, the course turns to the right in
anticipation of the figure-eight pattern. Light braking will
likely be required, but it is possible to speed through here
without braking. To the outside of the course is a wide
expanse of grass and kitty litter in case you overrun the
corner.

Turn 8 (Degner): The final right-hand corner before passing
underneath the bridge, this turn is tighter than the previous
corner, thus moderate braking and a steady racing line will
be required here. This is also another prime passing zone.
Take care not to overrun Turn 8, as there is not much
recovery room between the pavement and the barrier.

Straightaway: Accelerate strongly out of Degner and you
should be able to pass one or two cars as you race underneath
the bridge. The course fades to the right here before
reaching the tight Hairpin.

Turn 9 (Hairpin): This is a tight left-hand hairpin which
begins the next uphill segment of the Suzuka circuit. It is
possible to shortcut a little here, but the grass combined
with the angle of the hill here will really slow you down and
perhaps cause you to spin and/or slide, especially in wet
conditions. Be careful not to accelerate too soon, or you
will be out in the grass. There is a sizeable patch of kitty
litter for those who miss the hairpin completely.

Turn 10: Continuing the uphill run, the course here makes a
wide sweep to the right. Any braking here means losing track
positions.

Turns 11 and 12 (Spoon): This is a tricky pair of left-hand
corners, in a decreasing-radius 'U' formation. The first
corner is fairly standard, requiring only a little braking.
However, Turn 12 is both tighter AND slopes downhill, so
judicious usage of brakes and a pristine racing line are both
important here, especially if attempting to pass a slower
vehicle. If you misjudge any single corner at Suzuka, it
will be Turn 12; fortunately, there is plenty of recovery
room on both sides of the pavement here. However, do not
roll up on the rumble strips or the grass on the inside of
Turn 12, as that will almost certainly cause you to lose
control and likely spin.

Straightaway: Power out of Spoon and rocket down the
straightaway, passing multiple cars. After you cross the
bridge, start thinking about Chicane.

Turn 13 (130R): Shortly after crossing the bridge, the course
turns to the left. Some braking is required here. Also,
look for cars on the right slowing for the Pit Lane entry
just before the chicane.

Turns 14-16 (Chicane): This is a very tricky part of the
course. The chicane begins with a moderate turn to the
right, then a tight left-hand corner, then ends with a wider
turn to the right and empties out onto the Pit Straight. The
inside of the chicane is filled with sand AND barriers. Be
careful coming out of Turn 15 so that you don't go too wide
and bump the right side of the vehicle on the Pit Lane
barrier.

Pit Entry: The Pit Lane begins to the right just before
Chicane. Note that the Pit Entry is the SECOND patch of
pavement to the right coming off the main course.

====================================

DETAILS: ROAD ATLANTA
This circuit is perhaps most famous for its final turn, a
blind right-hand corner on a severe downhill slope beginning
just as the cars pass underneath Suzuki Bridge. Good speeds
overall can be obtained at Road Atlanta, but there are still
a number of challenging corners to tax the drivers and their
cars.

Pit Straight: This is the point of lowest elevation on the
circuit.

Turn 1: This seemingly-neverending J-turn begins the
circuit's long uphill climb; the first two-thirds of the turn
is rather significant, with the radius slowly increasing for
the last third of the corner as the course climbs steeply
uphill. Light braking is suggested here, and perhaps even
moderate braking will be preferred by many players, but it is
possible to speed through Turn 1 at top speed with NO
braking. However, with little or no braking, if you do not
have sufficient tire grip, you will slide out into the grass
and bang the barrier on the outside of Turn 1. If you have
an oversteer condition, expect to spin right at Pit Exit (at
the end of the significant portion of the turn), and just
hope that no one is coming out of Pit Lane at that very
moment!!! If competing in the Petit Le Mans, the light on
the inside of Turn 3 can overpower the glare from
competitors' taillights as you climb the steep hill out of
Turn 1 and into Turn 2, thus causing you to misjudge the
distance to the next vehicle in front of you and potentially
contributing to an incident, so exercise great caution here
(moreso than usual) when racing at night.

Turns 2-4: At a momentary plateau in track elevation, the
left-right-left semi-chicane can be a surprise. The apex of
Turn 2 is unsighted on entry. Turn 2 requires at least light
braking to keep on the pavement. Turn 3 requires moderate
braking, although light braking is possible if you drop the
right-side tires in the small patch of sand on the inside of
Turn 3. Turn 4 can often be taken at top speed, although
light braking may be necessary to stay on the pavement. With
fresh tires and excellent reflexes, this complex can be taken
at top speed, but be ready to countersteer and/or slam on the
brakes, especially when exiting Turn 4. This complex is also
one of the areas where CPU-controlled cars are likely to spin
out or otherwise run off-course, so be constantly wary here.

Turns 5-7 (S Curves): The course begins a gentle downhill
slope just before the entry of Turn 5, a right-hand corner
which can be taken flat-out. Turn 6 begins the next uphill
stage as the pavement turns to the left; again, this can be
taken at top speed. The right-hand Turn 7 can also be taken
at top speed, however, it is best to begin braking for Turn 8
here.

Turn 8: This is the second-nastiest place on the Road Atlanta
circuit. This blind left-hand corner requires moderate or
severe braking as the hill (now a mini-mountain) climbs
steeply, cresting just beyond the exit of Turn 8. If you
miss the braking zone, you will find yourself in a sand trap.
If you can get past that, however, there is another paved
road which will rejoin the official course. If you get
beyond THAT, however, you will bang a barrier. Only experts
will be able to successfully clear this nasty corner (if not
blocked by other cars) at over 100MPH/160KPH.

Straightaway: The mini-mountain crests shortly beyond the
exit of Turn 8. In terms of elevation, this straightaway is
essentially a roller-coaster ride, but the general trend is
downhill.

Turn 9: Moderate braking for this ninety-degree right-hand
corner is required, but there is kitty litter to collect you
if you miss the braking zone. There are two pieces of
pavement turning right here; the first is the sealed-off Pit
Entry for other racing series, so do not use the first turn-
off.

Turn 10: After a very short straightaway, the course again
makes a ninety-degree right-hand turn here. Moderate braking
is again required to keep out of the grassy recovery area.

Straightaway: This 'straightaway' has several fades along its
length. After the first fade to the left, the course resumes
an uphill slope. Beginning with the repaved section just
after the fade to the right, the course begins its overall
downhill trend.

Turns 11-12: This nasty left-right chicane requires plenty of
advance braking, or you will be caught out in the
grass/sand/barrier-filled zone on the inside of Turn 12. Be
careful not to run wide exiting Turn 12, as the outside of
Turn 12 also has plenty of sand to stop runaway vehicles.

Turn 13: This is by far the nastiest place on the circuit.
As you pass underneath Suzuki Bridge, the course has its most
significant elevation drop, resulting in cars lightening to
the point that - depending on your speed and racing line -
they may momentarily leave the ground!!!!! This is a blind
right-hand corner (due to the significant elevation drop)
which can actually be taken at full-throttle, but light
braking is really the preferred method of success here (at
the very least, be prepared to suddenly jam on the brakes
anyhow, just in case). Edge to the right as you approach
Suzuki Bridge and you should be okay; if you carry enough
speed, by running your right-tide tires just off the
pavement, the momentary lifting of your car will allow you to
clear the small grass/sand patch without ever toughing the
ground, thus without any loss of speed. However, Pit Entry
is on the right just beyond Suzuki Bridge, so beware of
slowing cars. If you do have trouble here, make use of the
'extra' paved lanes on the left (which actually go to a Pit
Lane used for other racing series) until you can edge back
onto the official course.

Turn 14: This is the final, right-hand corner of the circuit.
Unless encumbered by traffic, this corner can be taken at top
acceleration.

====================================

DETAILS: ROAD ATLANTA NATIONAL
This circuit is perhaps most famous for its final turn, a
blind right-hand corner on a severe downhill slope beginning
just as the cars pass underneath Suzuki Bridge. Good speeds
overall can be obtained at Road Atlanta, but there are still
a number of challenging corners to tax the drivers and their
cars.

Pit Straight: This is the point of lowest elevation on the
circuit.

Turn 1: This seemingly-neverending J-turn begins the
circuit's long uphill climb; the first two-thirds of the turn
is rather significant, with the radius slowly increasing for
the last third of the corner as the course climbs steeply
uphill. Light braking is suggested here, and perhaps even
moderate braking will be preferred by many players, but it is
possible to speed through Turn 1 at top speed with NO
braking. However, with little or no braking, if you do not
have sufficient tire grip, you will slide out into the grass
and bang the barrier on the outside of Turn 1. If you have
an oversteer condition, expect to spin right at Pit Exit (at
the end of the significant portion of the turn), and just
hope that no one is coming out of Pit Lane at that very
moment!!!

Turns 2-4: At a momentary plateau in track elevation, the
left-right-left semi-chicane can be a surprise. The apex of
Turn 2 is unsighted on entry. Turn 2 requires at least light
braking to keep on the pavement. Turn 3 requires moderate
braking, although light braking is possible if you drop the
right-side tires in the small patch of sand on the inside of
Turn 3. Turn 4 can often be taken at top speed, although
light braking may be necessary to stay on the pavement. With
fresh tires and excellent reflexes, this complex can be taken
at top speed, but be ready to countersteer and/or slam on the
brakes, especially when exiting Turn 4. This complex is also
one of the areas where CPU-controlled cars are likely to spin
out or otherwise run off-course, so be constantly wary here.

Turns 5-7 (S Curves): The course begins a gentle downhill
slope just before the entry of Turn 5, a right-hand corner
which can be taken flat-out. Turn 6 begins the next uphill
stage as the pavement turns to the left; again, this can be
taken at top speed. The right-hand Turn 7 can also be taken
at top speed, however, it is best to begin braking for Turn 8
here.

Turn 8: Moderate braking is heavily suggested here as you
reach the top of the hill during a left-hand turn.

Turn 9: After a short straightaway, Turn 9 is a gentle left-
hand turn which requires no braking as the course rejoins the
full Road Atlanta circuit.

Straightaway: Beginning with the repaved section just after
the fade to the right, the course begins its overall downhill
trend.

Turns 10-11: This nasty left-right chicane requires plenty of
advance braking, or you will be caught out in the
grass/sand/barrier-filled zone on the inside of Turn 11. Be
careful not to run wide exiting Turn 11, as the outside of
Turn 11 also has plenty of sand to stop runaway vehicles.

Turn 12: This is by far the nastiest place on the circuit.
As you pass underneath Suzuki Bridge, the course has its most
significant elevation drop, resulting in cars lightening to
the point that - depending on your speed and racing line -
they may momentarily leave the ground!!!!! This is a blind
right-hand corner (due to the significant elevation drop)
which can actually be taken at full-throttle, but light
braking is really the preferred method of success here (at
the very least, be prepared to suddenly jam on the brakes
anyhow, just in case). Edge to the right as you approach
Suzuki Bridge and you should be okay; if you carry enough
speed, by running your right-tide tires just off the
pavement, the momentary lifting of your car will allow you to
clear the small grass/sand patch without ever toughing the
ground, thus without any loss of speed. However, Pit Entry
is on the right just beyond Suzuki Bridge, so beware of
slowing cars. If you do have trouble here, make use of the
'extra' paved lanes on the left (which actually go to a Pit
Lane used for other racing series) until you can edge back
onto the official course.

Turn 13: This is the final, right-hand corner of the circuit.
Unless encumbered by traffic, this corner can be taken at top
acceleration.

====================================

DETAILS: REVERSE COURSES
I leave it to you to figure out how to handle the three
reverse courses: Brno, Donington National, and Donington
Grand Prix.

====================================
====================================
====================================

UNLOCKING CIRCUITS (SPOILERS!!!!!)
Here is how to unlock new circuits. The following expanse of
white space is to present a buffer so that those who wish to
learn this on their own will not accidentally see it.












































Note: The locked circuits were opened using a closed
prototype car (the Audi RBC from Audi Sport UK) with
intermediate Handling and easy AI Driver Skill at 3 laps per
race. If your quest is to open all the courses as quickly as
possible, why make it any harder on yourself than absolutely
necessary?????

Le Mans Initially available
Bugatti Win at Le Mans in Quick Race
Brno Win at Suzuka West in Quick Race
Donington National Initially available
Donington Grand Prix Win at Catalunya National in Quick
Race
Catalunya National Win at Road Atlanta National in
Quick Race
Catalunya Grand Prix Win at Road Atlanta in Quick Race
Suzuka East Initially available
Suzuka West Win at Donington National in Quick
Race
Suzuka Grand Prix Win at Bugatti in Quick Race
Road Atlanta National Initially available
Road Atlanta Win at Suzuka East in Quick Race
Reverse Courses: Win at Donington Grand Prix in
Brno Quick Race; all three Reverse
Donington National Courses are unlocked at once
Donington Grand Prix

====================================

UNLOCKING CARS (SPOILERS!!!!!)
Here is how to unlock new cars; please note that this is not
a complete list, as I still have many sections of the game to
complete. Note that often, the same make and model of car is
used by different teams (with different paint schemes and
racing number). Cars with a multiplier (such as 'x3') means
that the given team has more than one 'version' of the
specified car, with each 'version' differentiated by racing
number and (sometimes) by paint scheme and/or color(s).

The following expanse of white space is to present a buffer
so that those who wish to learn this on their own will not
accidentally see it.









































Cars Teams Procurement
-------------------- --------------- ---------------------
Audi R8 (x3) Audi Sport Team Win Le Mans 2000 at
Joest 24 minutes
Audi A8C Audi Sport UK Initially available
BMW V12 LM Thomas Bscher Win Petit Le Mans at
Promotion 30 minutes
Cadillac N LMP (x2) Team Cadillac Win Le Mans 2000 at
10 minutes
Cadillac N LMP (x2) Team Dams Win Le Mans 2000 at
10 minutes
Chrysler Viper GTS-R Carsport Holland Win Petit Le Mans at
10 minutes
Chrysler Viper GTS R Chamberlain Initially available
Engineering
Chrysler Viper GTS R Chamberlain Win Rookie GT
(different Engineering Championship
version)
Chrysler Viper GTS R Paul Belmondo Initially available
Racing
Chrysler Viper GTS R Team Goh Initially available
Chrysler Viper GTS R Team Oreca Win Pro GT
(x2) Championship
Chrysler Viper Team Oreca Win Petit Le Mans at
GTS-RT (x3) 10 minutes
Chevrolet Corvette Corvette Racing Win Petit Le Mans at
C5-R (x2) 10 minutes
Courage C Pescarolo Sport Win Le Mans 2000 at
52-Peugeot 24 minutes
Courage C 60-Judd SMG Win Petit Le Mans at
30 minutes
Debora LMP2000-BMW Bonnet Didier Win Petit Le Mans at
30 minutes
GT2 Roock Racing Win Rookie GT
Championship
GT2 Team Augusta Initially available
Racing
Jaguar XJR9 LM Jaguar Win Petit Le Mans at
100 minutes
LMGTP (x2) GTC Competition Initially available
LMP JMB Competition Initially available
LMP Kremer Racing Initially available
Lola B2K10-Ford Konrad Initially available
Motorsport
Lola B2K10-Judd Team Rafanelli Win Petit Le Mans at
30 minutes
Lola B2K40-Nissan Multimatic Initially available
Motorsports
Nissan R390 (x2) Nissan Win Open Prototype
Motorsports Championship
Panoz Esperante GTR Panoz Initially available
(x2) Motorsports
Panoz LMP Spyder Panoz Win GT Endurance
(x2) Motorsports Championship
Panoz LMP-1 (x2) Panoz Win Le Mans 2000 at
Motorsports 24 minutes
Panoz LMP-1 Team Den Bla Win Petit Le Mans at
Avis 30 minutes
Panoz LMP-1 TV Asahi Team Win Le Mans 2000 at
Dragon 10 minutes
Panoz LMP07 Panoz Win Le Mans 2000 at
Motorsports 240 minutes
Porsche 911 GT2 Freisinger Initially available
Motorsport
Porsche 911 GT2 Konrad Initially available
Motorsport
Reynard 2KQ-Judd Johansson Initially available
Matthews
Racing
Reynard 2KQ-Mopar Mopar Team Oreca Win Le Mans 2000 at
(x2) 24 minutes
Reynard ROC Win Petit Le Mans at
2KQ-Volkswagen 30 minutes
(x2)
Riley & Scott MKIII Riley & Scott Initially available
S2 Europe
Sauber C9 Sauber Win Petit Le Mans at
10 hours
WR LMP-Peugeot Welter Gerard Win Petit Le Mans at
30 minutes
WR LMP-Peugeot Welter Rachel Initially available

====================================
====================================
====================================

WISH LIST
Here are some of the things I would personally like to see in
future incarnation of the game:

1.) The Melbourne House/Infogrames promo is definitely cute,
but extremely out of place in a racing game with such a heavy
real-world emphasis. This promo desperately needs to be
changed.

2.) Faster loading times overall. Many screens take an
ENORMOUSLY long time to load, which can be rather
frustrating. Learn some tips from the programmers of Tokyo
Extreme Racer Zero!!!

3.) More options for car set-up. There is certainly no need
for exact gear ratios, etc., but more modification
possibilities would add another level of challenge to the
game.

4.) This is essentially a simulation game, so flags really
should be added. At the very least, local and global yellows
should be included.

5.) An oval test course. This would allow players to
experiment with different cars and set-ups to try to find the
fastest possible speeds, which can be very important in
certain modes of the game.

====================================
====================================
====================================

CONTACT
For rants, raves, etc., contact me at FEATHER7@IX.NETCOM.COM;
also, if you have enjoyed this guide and feel that it has
been helpful to you, I would certainly appreciate a small
donation via PayPal (http://www.paypal.com/) using the above
e-mail address.

To find the latest version of this and all my other PSX/PS2
game guides, visit FeatherGuides at
http://www.angelcities.com/members/feathersites/

====================================
====================================
====================================



=======================================================================
Wolf Feather Jamie Stafford
=======================================================================
Just as there are many parts needed to make a human a human, there's a
remarkable number of things needed to make an individual what they are.
- Major Kusanagi, _Ghost in the Shell_
=======================================================================








 
Comments:
Je reactie is bewaard !!!
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