This "Frequently Asked Questions list" is intended to supplement the (somewhat
skimpy) manual for the Sony PlayStation game, Destruction Derby. The opinions
and suggestions below are my own. The data below is copyright 1995 by
Psygnosis, Ltd. and no infringements are intended.
Destruction Derby provides a reply to the racing video games in which damage
to cars is not handled realistically. In short, the game is auto racing with
the emphasis on damage. This is shown in beautiful detail, and has definite
effects on the cars' performances.
You drive a stock car in one of three modes, each with its own goals. In
Destruction Derby mode, your goal is to spin the other cars as much as
possible while inflicting damage on them in an open arena. In Stock Car
Racing mode, you are trying to finish a race circuit in as close to first
place as possible. Wreckin' Racing mode is a race in which points are awarded
both for winning the race and for spinning the other cars. In all three
modes, you may race against a field of computerized competitors, against a
single computer competitor, or alone against the clock. You may choose to
compete in a stand-alone event or in a championship series consisting of many
competitions. If you have a friend with another copy of Destruction Derby,
another PlayStation, and another TV, you may race against him/her, either
one-on-one or in a field of computerized opponents. The championship modes
make for rewarding and sustained single-player play.
2. Driving Tips
The Rookie car (Psygnosis) seems to be for those who are new to any form of
video game racing - it is stable, but slow. The Amateur car (Grim Reaper) is
a good car for drivers familiar with other racing games and has significant
improvements in speed and handling. The Pro car (Smoothie) is supposedly
*the* car to learn in order to do well with the game, and has its own quirks.
One common problem seems to be that of constantly driving into walls. I
would suggest a period of experimentation in the Time Trials mode as a
remedy for this. Once you get the hang of combining braking with turning,
you'll have no more trouble with walls. Techniques include braking in the
middle of a turn if you are getting too close to the outside wall, braking
(while still driving straight) before entering a sharp turn, and braking at
the very start of a turn in order to begin a controlled skid/powerslide.
Another problem is that of being spun backward on the track when hit. The
manual makes some mention of using the L1 and R1 shoulder buttons, but is
vague. Basically, if you know that you are facing the wrong way on the track,
go in reverse while turning left or right on the D-pad and pressing L1 or R1.
This will spin you around quickly. If you have your back to the wall, then
go forward and steer normally. L1/R1 doesn't help going forward, except when
one or both of your car's side panels have been destroyed.
A more insidious problem is not knowing which way is forward when you're spun
around in one of the 90-degree intersections. The solution borders on the
tautological: know which way is forward. As you approach the intersection,
note the features of the road across the way (a distinctive billboard,
perhaps). This way, if you're spun, you'll know which way to go. As a last
resort, if you're either unable to determine the correct direction or unable
to proceed in it due to conflicting traffic, go with the flow of traffic.
You'll possibly be adding half a lap to your distance, but that is usually
better than staggering around in the middle of an intersection, getting the
stuffing beat out of you while desperately groping toward the "right" exit.
In any case, it's a good idea to drive on the side of the road which is nearer
to the crossing traffic's direction of approach (so that any impact will be
less likely to push you too far to the side to continue onward).
Having a single "destroyed area" in the front area of your car will wreck it.
A destroyed side panel will cause your car to pull to the side. Destroyed
areas in the rear of the car will lower its speed.
Lastly, remember that the game *is* playable . You may not believe this
after practicing for half an hour only to keep finishing near last place in
Stock Car mode, but continued practice will improve your performance.
Wreckin' Racing rewards slamming into other cars (which also don't drive as
fast) so it's less frustrating.
3. Scoring
In Destruction Derby mode, points are awarded solely for spinning and wrecking
other cars: 10 for wrecking, 10 for a 360-degree spin, 4 for 180 degrees, 2
for 90 degrees. The values are doubled when inflicted on the 1st Place car.
In addition to the above, 10 bonus points are awarded for placing 1st in
a Wreckin' Racing match, 6 for 2nd, and 4 for 3rd.
In Stock Car Racing, the finishing position is all that matters: 50 points
for 1st Place, 40 for 2nd, 35 for 3rd, 30 for 4th, 25 for 5th, 20 for 6th, 18
for 7th, 16 for 8th, 14 for 9th, 12 for 10th, 10 for 11th, 8 for 12th, 7 for
13th, 6 for 14th, 5 for 15th, 4 for 16th, 3 for 17th, 2 for 18th, 1 for 19th,
and 0 for 20th.
4. Codes
I'm normally careful to give credit to the suppliers of codes, but the
following Destruction Derby codes appeared nearly simultaneously from several
sources in the PlayStation Usenet newsgroups shortly after the game's release
(except for NPLAYERS, which I first saw posted by Mark Shelley on 11/21/95).
They are entered as names at any point when you are asked for a name. You
will then be known as "Cheat!" until you enter a different name (the codes
remain in effect, though).
!DAMAGE!: Your car is never damaged
REFLECT!: The Ruined Monastery track is available in practice mode
NPLAYERS: After selecting a track in practice mode, you may specify the
number of drivers
5. Cars and Drivers
Here are the cars/drivers sorted by their starting League Divisions and their
initial ranking within each league. This determines the starting order: the
lower-numbered (better) divisions start toward the back, with the better
drivers within a division starting toward the back of that division's segment
in Championship mode. The order within a division is reversed in Practice
mode, but the order of the divisions remains unchanged. The names are those
shown on the trucks in the "pit compound" (which sometimes differ slightly
from those given during gameplay). The drivers' ethnicities and genders are
based on the illustrations shown in the game.
# Name Chassis Colors Ethnicity/Gender
Division 1 (Roof Color = Black):
99 The Doctor White/Red White Male
95 Tax Man Green/Yellow White Male
82 Suicide Squad Cyan/Red Indian Female
53 Barmy Army Blue/Pink Black Male
Division 2 (Roof Color = Red):
37 Learner Yellow/White White Male
40 Psycho Black/Purple White Male
22 Crunch Bunch White/Purple Asian Male
52 Heavy Metal Hero Blue/White White Male
Division 3 (Roof Color = Cyan):
64 Pyromaniac Red Black Female
35 Team Goddess Purple/White Asian Female
13 The Skum Black/Yellow White Male
77 The Under Taker Black White Male
Division 4 (Roof Color = Yellow):
66 The Beast Black/Red White Female
23 The Idol Pink/White White Female
69 Passion Wagon Red/Pink White Female
47 Optician Green/White White Male
Division 5 (Roof Color = White):
1 [You: Psygnosis = Blue/Cyan, Grim Reaper = Black, Smoothie = Green/White]
7 Trash Man Purple/Orange White Male
88 The Bouncer Cyan/White White Male
50 The General Green Black Male
6. Contributors/Additions
If you have corrections or items to add to this FAQ, please e-mail me and I
will implement them with credit. The latest version of this FAQ can be found
via my home page.
